A Beach Getaway in Tofino
When people think of beaches, they often envision lush tropical countries, freshly caught seafood---and the expense that comes with it. During our Spring Break getaway, we managed to eat a healthy dose of clam chowder, fish fillets and visit no less than four beautiful beaches without boarding a single plane.
Tonquin Beach
Ocean, Tonquin Beach
Despite having lived here for over a decade, our family had yet to travel to Tofino, a seaside town located on the traditional territory of the Tla-o-qui-aht First Nation. In lieu of spending our Spring Break abroad, we decided that it was finally time to take the ferry and drive down to the island.
The total travel time was roughly 4 hours, so we briskly braved the early morning ferry and boarded at 8 a.m. The boat ride itself was pleasant and clear-skied, though there was no wi-fi, so be prepared to nap or bring a book to keep yourself entertained for an hour and a half. Several road stretches and Taylor Swift albums later, we arrived at Tofino Motel. If you’re a little worried about the Motel moniker, don’t be: with two large beds, a relatively spacious bathroom, and a balcony overlooking sail boats and leafy trees, we were well-satisfied with our cosy 2-bedroom suite.
After taking an hour or so to lounge around and watch reruns on TV, we headed out for Tonquin, a beach only a short walk from the motel. The skies were grey and downcast, but the sight of serenity was enough to bear the cold. For an hour, we stood on the sand suspended by the beach’s solitude, mesmerized by lines of dark waves as they endlessly looped back and forth from sea to shore.
Tonquin Beach
The thin sheets of rain, however, made for a chilly walk around town as we swiftly rounded the streets searching for something to fill our stomachs. In the end, dinner unfolded from a box by Basic Goodness Pizzeria, a restaurant emphatically recommended by a trusted friend who travelled to Tofino yearly and claimed this as her family’s all-time favourite pizza place. Bone-tired, we returned to our room to enjoy freshly-made, sharply-flavoured, Italian-style pizza, served with cokes and followed by a screening of Turning Red on Disney+. With crispy dough and well-spiced margherita sauce, it was easy to see why my friend favoured this place.
The next morning began with a small yet sweet breakfast: steaming hot chocolate courtesy of the room kettle and pastries from Maxim's, a popular Asian bakery back home. Packing light (powerbank, water and snacks), we then headed out for our main activity of the day: the beach tour. From Cox Bay to North Chesterman Beach, we experienced Tofino’s vast waters from four different angles. There was something different about each of them---whether it was a jagged rock formation, or a forest of emerald trees, strewn with moss and blossoming plant-life. After our third beach, our growling stomachs led us to Tacofino, a food truck artfully decorated with vibrant bumper stickers and a brightly coloured image of the Virgin Mary.
Tacofino Truck
Keen to avoid catching a cold, we quickly ordered and returned to the comfort of our car carrying bundles of wrapped goods: burritos, quesadillas, tacos. Like everything that we ate on the island, we were not disappointed. It was filling without being overwhelming, and the freshly flayed meat brought us handfuls of warmth amidst the cold. A good lunch would not be complete, however, without desert. Thankfully, Chocolate Tofino was a stone’s throw away, beckoning us with a diverse list of ice cream flavours and specialty chocolates. Though the chocolate was good, the real standout was the rather generous scoops of salted caramel ice cream that the cashier piled on our cone. Smooth, rich and topped off with crunchy bits, this treat was a sweet finale to our spicy lunch.
MacKenzie Beach
We then topped off our tour with MacKenzie beach, where a pair of dogs lept joyfully for their toys, seemingly unbothered by the frigid temperatures. One even galloped into the sea with a canine sort of fearlessness.
Behind the sandy area, there were rows of beautiful huts overlooking the ocean, big enough to house several friends or family members. Before we knew it, the wind grew more bitter, and so we left with a string of photos and a vow to book the huts on our next visit.
With a few hours till dinner, we perused the town more closely, drifting in and out of local gift shops and a bookstore charmingly called, Mermaid Tales, buying little mementos and things that would surely spark some joy back home.
Strawberry Pie
As the afternoon approached, we found ourselves eating merienda at Savary Island Pie, a well-known bakery nestled neatly at the top of the docks. While the sun began to peek out, we ordered a warm plate of strawberry pie, topped off with vanilla ice cream, and enjoyed the fruit and its perfectly flaky crust.
Pieces by Roy Henry Vickers
Our next highlight was a visit to Roy Henry Vickers Gallery, a wide, cabin-like space showcasing an array of beautiful prints and canvases from the acclaimed Indigenous artist. Inside, we took our time exploring each work at our own pace, enraptured by the artist statements’ which illuminated the stories behind each piece. Though it was extremely difficult to choose, we left with two vividly coloured pieces which now hang in our kitchen.
As we continued our promenade around town, we made a stop at the House of Himwitsa Gallery, an Indigenous-run gallery housing a variety of Indigenous hand-crafted items---from jewellery to cards, to clothing pieces. My sister and I struggled over what to choose as each card was a unique and striking print. In the end, we each chose two beautiful illustrations, which we would later also hang in our respective bedrooms.
Dinner at The Shed
For our final dinner in Tofino, we ate at the nondescriptly named The Shed, and devoured a delicious seafood feast consisting of pasta, clam chowder and calamari. Despite the evening crowd of customers, service was swift, and thanks to heated umbrellas, we were able to stay warm on the outdoor patio. By the time we returned to the motel, we were filled with well-cooked fish and a pleasant buzz at the sight of the now shining sun---a serendipitous close to our time in Tofino.
The return home required no rush, as our ferry wasn’t scheduled until 8:00 p.m. Instead, we took our time cruising to the docks to make a stop at Ucluelet, a district only an hour away from Tofino. We first embarked on a picturesque trail, complete with an old lighthouse, sea breezes and cavernous bluffs that reminded me of San Francisco.
For fans of nature walks, the Artist Loops and Lighthouse Loop is a great opportunity to get a little exercise in between driving, as the path is clear and easy to navigate for hikers of all levels.
The Lighthouse Loop
The Bluffs
Post-walk, we ate at a family-owned (unsurprisingly seafood-themed) restaurant by the side of the road. Furnished with the vintage dressings of a kitschy wooden cabin, Howler’s was the perfect temporary home for travelers and locals alike. Here, we enjoyed fried teriyaki shrimp skewers, clam chowder (again) and fish and chips while Spongebob peered at us from the TV hanging in the corner. We also made sure to stop at Ucluelet’s Zoe’s Bakery and Cafe, a well-loved spot for tourists and locals alike searching for something to satisfy their pastry cravings.
Before continuing onto Nanaimo, we made another nature stop at the Ancient Cedars Loop Trail and Cathedral Grove. Unlike the other trails, these paths were made to highlight the beauty of the forest. Though there were many others walking with us, there was a soft stillness that hung in the air, a beautiful sense of peace that can only be found away from man-made cities and noise. As we walked beneath canopies of trees and observed the thick roots of those who had fallen, it was easy to appreciate the wonder of creation. I believe that it is in places like the woods, where we can begin to feel a sense of humility at our own smallness, to explore our connection to the world around us and our responsibility to care for it.
Roughly an hour later, we finally landed in Nanaimo, where we spent the last few hours before our ferry exploring the Goats on Roof Old Country market. Despite its title, Goats on the Roof did not, at the moment, have any goats on the roof. However, the inside of the market was a spectacle in itself, with an explosion of rainbow-coloured lanterns hanging from the ceiling, lifelike figures of elephants and knights, and more flavours of cheese than I ever thought existed.
Goats on Roof market
Interestingly, the market also had a unique feature of tagging their produce with flags to indicate where it had come from. Even if you’re not planning to buy food, I would recommend going in just to witness the spectacular, carefully curated displays adorning each nook and cranny of the place. Their stock included all sorts of items seldom found in a run-of-the-mill store, including eco-friendly stationery, wooden toy sets, uniquely designed hooks and even wigs.
After shopping around and buying a handful of rare items, we asked another cashier and were directed to a secluded forest area, only a few minutes away from the other outdoor markets. Here, we were finally able to see a pair of goats resting peacefully, laying in front of their own little house. As our departure grew nearer, we again drove through curving roads and falling rains to the sounds of my sister’s immaculately curated playlists.
Eventually we reached Woodgrove, an ageing local mall which reminded me vaguely of Stranger Things. With dinnertime approaching, we navigated through teenagers and children racing on wheeled animal-themed plushies until we finally reached the food court, where we quickly ate some Japanese takeout before heading to the ferry terminal. While waiting for our call time, we dove into the box of treats we purchased at Zoe’s Bakery, enjoying an assortment of unique twists on old classics, including: a peanut butter Nanaimo bar, a berry ‘plop’ tart, a carrot cake and a cheese cake.
By the time our ferry was on the waters, the skies were dim enough for the stars and city lights to come out and really shine. As one last hurrah, my sister and I bought two helpings of soft-serve ice cream, a rare late night snack that we shared with our parents before the boat landed.
Though we had plenty of bags to unpack, we saved most of it for the next day, finishing our night routines with dreary eyes before heading off to bed. Sleep came easy that night, as we drifted off dreaming of Tofino.