Toronto and Montreal Summer Escape
My 22nd summer unwound slowly. By the end of July, it was too hot to go to the beach; the sun was scalding, and the potential of a heat stroke kept us at bay from the ocean. I did not swim in lakes with family friends or watch the smoke billow from the barbeque. I worked from home everyday, attempted to write consistently and looped aimlessly around the park. All three adults in my house were working constantly, which meant, of course, that all of us were eager for a reprieve, a sunlight-tinted, dream-escape from our day jobs. After months of scanning potential destinations, this manifested itself in a five-day family trip away from the west coast. And so we criss-crossed the months of July to August on trains, planes and buses. We ate poutine and lasagna and missed our dearly departed rice cooker.
From July 17 to July 20, we were fortunate enough to be able to visit the traditional, ancestral, and stolen lands of the Mississaugas of the Credit, the Anishnabeg, the Chippewa, the Haudenosaunee and the Wendat peoples. From July 20 to July 22, we were on the traditional, ancestral, and stolen lands of the Haudenosaunee and Anishinaabeg peoples. Or what is colonially known today as: ‘Toronto’ and ‘Montréal’.
‘Toronto’ originates from Tkaronto, “a Mowhawk word translating literally to where there are trees standing in the water” (culturetrip), while ‘Montreal’ is Tiohti:áke in Kanien’kéha, and Mooniyang in Anishinaabemowin (McGill).
I start with this introduction because, as non-Indigenous people, it is important not only to use their first names, but to think critically about what information and histories we are taught---even in things such as the Hop On and Hop Off tours which I mention below. Though things are slowly changing, the majority of mainstream communications focus on the voice of the coloniser and present it as the objective truth. It is important to actively seek out Indigenous histories and perspectives, and to remember these truths as we live and travel on their land.
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After a short 3-4 hour flight, we arrived in a city so humid that it reminded me of stepping outside of the plane in the Philippines and being thrust into a cloud of moist air. By the time we left the airport with all of our bags, it was late in the afternoon, so we bought tickets for their GO train (think of it as their version of the Skytrain) and, after a short ride, easily found our way to the AirBnB.
Thanks to my parents’ meticulous searching, we were able to find one located so close to the CN Tower that we only needed to slip onto the balcony to watch it light up the city. After an hour or so of relaxing and unpacking, we ventured outside for dinner. In a popular restaurant called Jack Astor’s, we celebrated my Tito and Tita’s anniversary with rich helpings of nachos, burgers and fries. By the time we left, the sun was dimming and there was nothing left to do but to rest and prepare for a busy day of true sightseeing.
The next morning, we began on the Hop On and Hop Off bus; infamous tours hosted on a line of bright red doubledeckers---reminiscent of course, of the iconic buses in London. For approximately two hours, you will have a guide who takes you from ‘old’ to ‘new’ Tkaronto, spouting facts about everything from the city’s architecture to the activities of its more famous inhabitants. Though you are allowed to ‘hop off’ at any time, as the name suggests, we opted to experience the whole tour first.
Weathering a sprinkle of light rain, we spent the morning photographing countless sky-high buildings and much older monuments from our bird’s eye seats on top of the bus. Our guide gave us a wide scope of the city’s urban areas: from the University, to the Bell tower, to the town halls.
As it was my first time in Tkaronto, I found it fascinating to see how structurally similar and/or different it felt from home. To the mainstream, ‘Vancouver’ often prides itself on being as relaxed as the waters that meet its coast. Tkaronto, on the other hand, is known for a faster-paced hustle, not unlike its close neighbour, ‘New York’.
Sure enough, we saw a good amount of busyness and foot traffic weaving through its towering skyscrapers and downtown area, where we spotted a real-life Spiderman, busking musicians and comic books being sold on the pavement. Interestingly, there were also many well-preserved, heritage buildings whose architecture evoked more of an older, classically European style. According to the tour guide, solid legal protections prevented these buildings from being demolished and allowed them to be repurposed as farm markets or banks.
After looping around the entire city once, we headed out for a quick lunch at the docks before boarding again on a free boat ride to Tkaronto’s islands. This boat ride is a part of the tour bus package, so we would definitely recommend allocating an hour of your time for this, as you will be able to see different kinds of wildlife (primarily birds) and enjoy the tranquillity of being on the water.
Our next day began with an early call time of 7:00 a.m. in order to catch the Megabus to Niagara Falls. After around two hours of sleeping through several playlists, we got off directly at the falls. It took only one step off the bus to find ourselves instantly swarmed by crowds. Strangers were scattered like birds with cameras, hundreds of phone screens shuttering across the enormous curve of the falls.
Before heading to our scheduled tour, however, we went for lunch at the Skylon Tower, a revolving restaurant with a similar design to the restaurant in ‘Vancouver’: a large dome sitting on top of a tall elevator. With a limited menu consisting mostly of fish, clam chowder and pasta, the point of this restaurant is not to have a ground-breaking culinary experience, but rather the view itself. Seeing the falls from such a high angle, as well as the surrounding land was truly stunning. To experience the height and view without the glass wall, we recommend stepping onto the observation deck before you leave.
After lunch, we were eager to embark on the so-called ‘Journey Behind the Falls’. Unfortunately, the line was incredibly long because you have to wait to get your ticket validated, even if you buy it beforehand. It took around two hours of shuffling forward in their provided, bright-yellow ponchos, to finally make it to the elevator that would take us below ground-level.
Once we tunnelled down, we found ourselves in a dark, damp hallway. The walls echoed with thrashing water, wet shoes slapping on the floor and strangers’ shrieks of excitement. As we walked along the hall, we discovered that there were multiple mini ports available to stop at, with plaques explaining each the history behind each one. Naturally, the main attraction was the platform where you can step outside and literally be in the middle of the Falls. Surrounded by the aquamarine water pouring over and around us, it is easy to be amazed by the power and vastness of creation.
Our third day actually included my personal highlight of the whole trip: taking the VIARAIL. Before boarding the train, I had romantic visions of what it would be like: listening to folklore-esque soundtracks, and gazing wistfully at the countryside with my little notebook in front of me. I was pleased to find out that this was exactly right. By purchasing VIARAIL’s business class tickets, we were able to enjoy refreshments in the lounge, board without waiting in line, and sit comfortably in a car that allowed plenty of legroom. The service itself was wonderful, as we were surprised to find that our tickets came with three fairly high-quality meals (dessert included!). After spending most of the six hours listening to music, writing, using their wifi and taking videos of the sunset, I would definitely say that trains are my preferred mode of transportation.
The first thing that we did when we arrived in ‘Montréal’ was, ironically, to search for directions regarding their public transportation. Although their train is underground, their system also works very similarly to Translink’s, and so it was pretty straightforward to find our way to the AirBnB simply by taking the metro.
After unpacking our things, we visited one of my Tito’s cousins, who kindly hosted us for a night in their suburban home; around thirty minutes away from the city. Happily married with grandchildren, the couple told us many stories about their life and last two decades in ‘Montréal’. They also drove us up to St. Joseph’s Oratory, a beautiful Basilica sitting appropriately on top of a hill. With sweeping ceilings, endless rows of wooden pews and a beautiful altar, the Basilica certainly lived up to its description as a ‘place of expression of faith, healing and peace’.
Again, we spent our second day doing a Hop On, Hop Off tour---only this time it was in blistering heat. Despite the weather, we were blessed with an amazing tour guide, who cracked several jokes in both English and French as he took us all the way from ‘Old’ to ‘New’ Montréal’. From cobblestone streets to a literal palace, it was clear that this was vastly different in comparison to ‘Toronto’. Their skyscrapers didn’t reach as high, and their streets were fraught with elegant columns and cathedrals. As a tourist, my first impression would be that it is architecturally more European than ‘North American’. However, it was also quite interesting to discover that the population of Montréal is really diverse---something that we noticed on the daily, as we came across gems on the street like a Filipino bakery and store signs in Arabic.
Naturally we also had to allot at least an hour to enter and explore the famous Notre Dame cathedral, a popular spot even for non-Catholic tourists. Our family was fortunate enough to see Notre Dame in France before the fire, so it was particularly interesting to visit with this memory at the back of our minds.
As soon as we walked in, however, we were speechless---probably for the best, considering it is after all, a place of prayer. In the front, of course, was Jesus on the cross, the focal point of the cathedral. The altar was also surrounded by angels and apostles, delicately carved into the heavenly blue sky. The strategically placed lighting and rows of flickering candles only added to the effect of holiness.
Everything, from the wooden art on the sides of the pews to the intricately patterned columns, was crafted with intense amounts of detail and love.
Thanks to our wonderful hosts from the night before, we ended our day by finding Jose Rizal’s monument in a park serendipitously close to our AirBnB. Though we longed for rest, we made a short trek to the park, not quite sure what would face us there. And then, sure enough, standing proudly amongst swaying trees and foliage, was a beautiful bust of one of the Philippines’ national heroes, with a plaque written in French and Tagalog.
Although we (regrettably) only spent one full day here, it was enough time to at least eat one poutine, buy their famous bagels, and catch a glimpse of the city and many iconic structures. Bone-tired, we spent the last day taking the train back to ‘Toronto’ before flying back home.
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On our first night in the AirBnB, I had a conversation with my Lola that stuck with me throughout the trip. As I was describing our vacation, she expressed her happiness for me---and reminded me to cherish and be grateful for the work that my parents had put in to bring us this experience, especially because ang pera ay nawawala, pero ang magagandang alaala ay pwedeng balikbalikan (money disappears, but you can always go back to beautiful memories).
Travel itself can be a grossly extractive activity; tourists come, take what they want, and go, leaving litter and environmental harm in their wake. We receive so much through these experiences; memories, food, hospitality. How can you truly care for where you are going? How can you honour the people and the histories that have existed on these lands since time immemorial? Whenever we embark on a trip, it is worthwhile to take a moment to humble ourselves, and reflect on how we can return what we receive.
A Beach Getaway in Tofino
When people think of beaches, they often envision lush tropical countries, freshly caught seafood---and the expense that comes with it. During our Spring Break getaway, we managed to eat a healthy dose of clam chowder, fish fillets and visit no less than four beautiful beaches without boarding a single plane.
Tonquin Beach
Ocean, Tonquin Beach
Despite having lived here for over a decade, our family had yet to travel to Tofino, a seaside town located on the traditional territory of the Tla-o-qui-aht First Nation. In lieu of spending our Spring Break abroad, we decided that it was finally time to take the ferry and drive down to the island.
The total travel time was roughly 4 hours, so we briskly braved the early morning ferry and boarded at 8 a.m. The boat ride itself was pleasant and clear-skied, though there was no wi-fi, so be prepared to nap or bring a book to keep yourself entertained for an hour and a half. Several road stretches and Taylor Swift albums later, we arrived at Tofino Motel. If you’re a little worried about the Motel moniker, don’t be: with two large beds, a relatively spacious bathroom, and a balcony overlooking sail boats and leafy trees, we were well-satisfied with our cosy 2-bedroom suite.
After taking an hour or so to lounge around and watch reruns on TV, we headed out for Tonquin, a beach only a short walk from the motel. The skies were grey and downcast, but the sight of serenity was enough to bear the cold. For an hour, we stood on the sand suspended by the beach’s solitude, mesmerized by lines of dark waves as they endlessly looped back and forth from sea to shore.
Tonquin Beach
The thin sheets of rain, however, made for a chilly walk around town as we swiftly rounded the streets searching for something to fill our stomachs. In the end, dinner unfolded from a box by Basic Goodness Pizzeria, a restaurant emphatically recommended by a trusted friend who travelled to Tofino yearly and claimed this as her family’s all-time favourite pizza place. Bone-tired, we returned to our room to enjoy freshly-made, sharply-flavoured, Italian-style pizza, served with cokes and followed by a screening of Turning Red on Disney+. With crispy dough and well-spiced margherita sauce, it was easy to see why my friend favoured this place.
The next morning began with a small yet sweet breakfast: steaming hot chocolate courtesy of the room kettle and pastries from Maxim's, a popular Asian bakery back home. Packing light (powerbank, water and snacks), we then headed out for our main activity of the day: the beach tour. From Cox Bay to North Chesterman Beach, we experienced Tofino’s vast waters from four different angles. There was something different about each of them---whether it was a jagged rock formation, or a forest of emerald trees, strewn with moss and blossoming plant-life. After our third beach, our growling stomachs led us to Tacofino, a food truck artfully decorated with vibrant bumper stickers and a brightly coloured image of the Virgin Mary.
Tacofino Truck
Keen to avoid catching a cold, we quickly ordered and returned to the comfort of our car carrying bundles of wrapped goods: burritos, quesadillas, tacos. Like everything that we ate on the island, we were not disappointed. It was filling without being overwhelming, and the freshly flayed meat brought us handfuls of warmth amidst the cold. A good lunch would not be complete, however, without desert. Thankfully, Chocolate Tofino was a stone’s throw away, beckoning us with a diverse list of ice cream flavours and specialty chocolates. Though the chocolate was good, the real standout was the rather generous scoops of salted caramel ice cream that the cashier piled on our cone. Smooth, rich and topped off with crunchy bits, this treat was a sweet finale to our spicy lunch.
MacKenzie Beach
We then topped off our tour with MacKenzie beach, where a pair of dogs lept joyfully for their toys, seemingly unbothered by the frigid temperatures. One even galloped into the sea with a canine sort of fearlessness.
Behind the sandy area, there were rows of beautiful huts overlooking the ocean, big enough to house several friends or family members. Before we knew it, the wind grew more bitter, and so we left with a string of photos and a vow to book the huts on our next visit.
With a few hours till dinner, we perused the town more closely, drifting in and out of local gift shops and a bookstore charmingly called, Mermaid Tales, buying little mementos and things that would surely spark some joy back home.
Strawberry Pie
As the afternoon approached, we found ourselves eating merienda at Savary Island Pie, a well-known bakery nestled neatly at the top of the docks. While the sun began to peek out, we ordered a warm plate of strawberry pie, topped off with vanilla ice cream, and enjoyed the fruit and its perfectly flaky crust.
Pieces by Roy Henry Vickers
Our next highlight was a visit to Roy Henry Vickers Gallery, a wide, cabin-like space showcasing an array of beautiful prints and canvases from the acclaimed Indigenous artist. Inside, we took our time exploring each work at our own pace, enraptured by the artist statements’ which illuminated the stories behind each piece. Though it was extremely difficult to choose, we left with two vividly coloured pieces which now hang in our kitchen.
As we continued our promenade around town, we made a stop at the House of Himwitsa Gallery, an Indigenous-run gallery housing a variety of Indigenous hand-crafted items---from jewellery to cards, to clothing pieces. My sister and I struggled over what to choose as each card was a unique and striking print. In the end, we each chose two beautiful illustrations, which we would later also hang in our respective bedrooms.
Dinner at The Shed
For our final dinner in Tofino, we ate at the nondescriptly named The Shed, and devoured a delicious seafood feast consisting of pasta, clam chowder and calamari. Despite the evening crowd of customers, service was swift, and thanks to heated umbrellas, we were able to stay warm on the outdoor patio. By the time we returned to the motel, we were filled with well-cooked fish and a pleasant buzz at the sight of the now shining sun---a serendipitous close to our time in Tofino.
The return home required no rush, as our ferry wasn’t scheduled until 8:00 p.m. Instead, we took our time cruising to the docks to make a stop at Ucluelet, a district only an hour away from Tofino. We first embarked on a picturesque trail, complete with an old lighthouse, sea breezes and cavernous bluffs that reminded me of San Francisco.
For fans of nature walks, the Artist Loops and Lighthouse Loop is a great opportunity to get a little exercise in between driving, as the path is clear and easy to navigate for hikers of all levels.
The Lighthouse Loop
The Bluffs
Post-walk, we ate at a family-owned (unsurprisingly seafood-themed) restaurant by the side of the road. Furnished with the vintage dressings of a kitschy wooden cabin, Howler’s was the perfect temporary home for travelers and locals alike. Here, we enjoyed fried teriyaki shrimp skewers, clam chowder (again) and fish and chips while Spongebob peered at us from the TV hanging in the corner. We also made sure to stop at Ucluelet’s Zoe’s Bakery and Cafe, a well-loved spot for tourists and locals alike searching for something to satisfy their pastry cravings.
Before continuing onto Nanaimo, we made another nature stop at the Ancient Cedars Loop Trail and Cathedral Grove. Unlike the other trails, these paths were made to highlight the beauty of the forest. Though there were many others walking with us, there was a soft stillness that hung in the air, a beautiful sense of peace that can only be found away from man-made cities and noise. As we walked beneath canopies of trees and observed the thick roots of those who had fallen, it was easy to appreciate the wonder of creation. I believe that it is in places like the woods, where we can begin to feel a sense of humility at our own smallness, to explore our connection to the world around us and our responsibility to care for it.
Roughly an hour later, we finally landed in Nanaimo, where we spent the last few hours before our ferry exploring the Goats on Roof Old Country market. Despite its title, Goats on the Roof did not, at the moment, have any goats on the roof. However, the inside of the market was a spectacle in itself, with an explosion of rainbow-coloured lanterns hanging from the ceiling, lifelike figures of elephants and knights, and more flavours of cheese than I ever thought existed.
Goats on Roof market
Interestingly, the market also had a unique feature of tagging their produce with flags to indicate where it had come from. Even if you’re not planning to buy food, I would recommend going in just to witness the spectacular, carefully curated displays adorning each nook and cranny of the place. Their stock included all sorts of items seldom found in a run-of-the-mill store, including eco-friendly stationery, wooden toy sets, uniquely designed hooks and even wigs.
After shopping around and buying a handful of rare items, we asked another cashier and were directed to a secluded forest area, only a few minutes away from the other outdoor markets. Here, we were finally able to see a pair of goats resting peacefully, laying in front of their own little house. As our departure grew nearer, we again drove through curving roads and falling rains to the sounds of my sister’s immaculately curated playlists.
Eventually we reached Woodgrove, an ageing local mall which reminded me vaguely of Stranger Things. With dinnertime approaching, we navigated through teenagers and children racing on wheeled animal-themed plushies until we finally reached the food court, where we quickly ate some Japanese takeout before heading to the ferry terminal. While waiting for our call time, we dove into the box of treats we purchased at Zoe’s Bakery, enjoying an assortment of unique twists on old classics, including: a peanut butter Nanaimo bar, a berry ‘plop’ tart, a carrot cake and a cheese cake.
By the time our ferry was on the waters, the skies were dim enough for the stars and city lights to come out and really shine. As one last hurrah, my sister and I bought two helpings of soft-serve ice cream, a rare late night snack that we shared with our parents before the boat landed.
Though we had plenty of bags to unpack, we saved most of it for the next day, finishing our night routines with dreary eyes before heading off to bed. Sleep came easy that night, as we drifted off dreaming of Tofino.
Chocolate Cinnamon Rolls
Once in a while, I crave cinnamon rolls. I missed the aroma of cinnamon, not only in the kitchen, but around the house. Our family often bought the 'original' flavoured rolls from Cinnabon and enjoyed them for breakfast. When I came across this recipe, I was excited to see that it put a chocolate-y twist on the classic recipe. This tasty treat also makes a sweet snack, paired best with milk.
In making bread, one of the important step is to activate the yeast. I remember my friend teaching me how to make one. It is important that the milk or water is warm (100F/38C degrees). If the liquid is too cold, it won't activate and if it's too hot, it will kill the yeast.
It will not be complete without chocolate added to it. It also best to eat with coffee or tea.
Chocolate Cinnamon Rolls
Ingredients
- 240 ml (1 cup) warm (100°F) milk
- 75 grams (⅓ cup) granulated white sugar
- 10 grams (1Tablespoon) active dry yeast
- 72 grams (5Tablespoons) unsalted butter, softened
- 540 grams (4 ¼ cups) all purpose flour
- 2 large eggs, room temperature
- 1 tsp salt
- 90 grams (6Tablespoons) unsalted butter, softened
- 1 tsp vanilla extract
- 100 grams (½ cup) brown sugar
- 10 grams (2Tablespoons) cocoa powder
- 1 tsp ground cinnamon
- 135 grams dark chocolate
- 75 grams Chocolate
- 75 grams Whipping Cream
Instructions
- Activate the yeast by combining the warm milk, yeast and 1 tsp of sugar. Set aside until it bubbles.
- In a standing mixer, combine butter, eggs, sugar, salt and slowly add the flour.
- Beat until well combined. Scrape the sides of the bowl. The dough will be sticky.
- Grease a large bowl with oil and place the dough. Cover and let it rise for an hour or until it doubles in size.
- Prepare the filling.
- In a bowl, combine the dry ingredients: brown sugar, cocoa powder and ground cinnamon.
- In another bowl, whip the softened unsalted butter and vanilla extract. Set aside.
- Once the dough has doubled in size,roll it out onto a floured surface into a 15x9” rectangle by using a rolling pin.
- Spread the butter over the dough.
- Sprinkle the dry ingredients.
- Cut the dough into 12-14 pieces.
- Cover and let it rest for 30 minutes. Bake for 30 minutes at 350°F for 25-30 minutes or until golden brown.
- Let it cool and prepare the chocolate ganache.
- Heat the whipping cream in a small saucepan over medium heat until it simmers.
- Pour the whipping cream in the chocolates and let it sit for a minute before stirring.
- Drizzle the chocolate ganache on top of the rolls.
Double Chocolate Chip Cookie
There are days where you just can't sleep and crave for something to eat. This is one of our family's favorite comfort foods: chocolate chip cookie with milk. Though we usually go for the most basic recipe, we decided to try something new with this double chocolate, 'New York' style cookie. It was definitely worth it---this sweet spin on a classic ended up being a new favourite!
Try this easy, crunchy and chewy chocolate chip cookie recipe. It's so easy to do, your family will enjoy making it every single time!
Double Chocolate Chip Cookie
Ingredients
- 125 grams (½ cup) unsalted butter
- 75 grams (1/4 cup+ 2tbsp) white granulated sugar
- 100 grams (½) brown sugar
- 1 egg
- 1 tsp vanilla extract
- 300 grams (2 cups+6 tbsp) all purpose flour
- 1½ tsp baking powder
- ½ tsp baking soda
- ½ tsp salt
- 150 grams semi-sweet chocolate chips
- 150 grams dark chocolate, broken into pieces
Instructions
- Prepare Ingredients
- In a stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment, add butter and sugars. Beat until creamy.
- Mix in the egg and vanilla extract. Add the flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt. Mix until a cookie dough is formed.
- Add the chocolate chips until well combined.
- Use an ice cream scoop to form a ball and place in a baking pan. Refrigerate the dough for 30 minutes.
- Preheat oven to 350°F and bake for 13-15 minutes. Let it stay in the baking pan for 5 minutes before transferring to a wire rack.
- Transfer in a wire rack to completely cool.
Salted Caramel and Chocolate Cupcakes
Cupcakes is one of my favourite foods to bake. It is easy and always a hit with my kids. The combination of caramel and salt also creates a good contrast between sweet and salty flavours.
In this recipe, I use canned caramel. I discovered this 'dulce de leche' can of caramel while shopping at Walmart. Using this will help you save time preparing for caramel.
Salted Caramel and Chocolate Cupcakes
Ingredients
- 150 grams unsalted butter
- 150 grams brown sugar
- 3 large eggs
- 1 cup flour
- 1½ tsp baking powder
- ¼ tsp salt
- 25 grams cocoa powder
- 250 grams dulce de leche (canned caramel)
- ½ tsp sea salt
- 125 grams unsalted butter, softened
- 200 grams icing sugar
Instructions
- Pre heat oven to 350°. Prepare 12 cupcake liners in a cupcake pan.
- In a medium bowl, mix together flour, baking powder, salt and cocoa powder.
- In a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream together butter and sugar.
- Add the eggs and flour mixture. Beat until smooth.
- Pour the batter in the cupcake liners. Bake for 20-25 minutes.
- Mix together dulce de leche (caramel) and sea salt.
- In a standing mixer, fitted with paddle attachment, beat the butter until smooth.
- Add the icing sugar in 2-3 batches. Beat until it is fully incorporated.
- Then add the salted caramel until smooth.
- Pipe the butter cream in the cupcake. Use 1M (Wilton) to pipe the buttercream. Optional: Sprinkle chocolate chips or drizzle caramel.
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